Oregon Truffles at Ferry Farmers Market

The weekend when Jack and I visited my parents in San Francisco was cold and clear. We went to the Ferry Farmer's market where I became overwhelmed by the number of stands and had a breakfast's worth of free samples. In the Ferry building, we stopped at the Far West Fungi store and gave into temptation, buying a couple of Oregon truffles. In retrospect, I don't remember if they were white or black. With all the truffle oil we've been using, plus my discovery of Cypress Grove's "Truffle Tremor" cheese (all the goodness of Humboldt Fog cheese with flecks of black truffle), we were blindsided. That night, we made a feast, with breaded mustard and rosemary lamb chops, steak in a red wine sauce, and mushroom risotto. We placed thinly sliced pieces of truffle on top of the risotto.

The verdict: the truffles were very subtle in the risotto, almost indiscernable. I had to constantly sniff to catch a whiff of truffle. We left one truffle in the refrigerator overnight. The next morning, the whole refrigerator reeked of truffles, and when I opened the container, my mother, standing three feet away, made a face and waved the air around. After poking around on the internet, it appears the truffle had ripened overnight. It's unfortunate that we didn't cook with the ripened truffle that day, as we fled down I-5 that afternoon. But now we know that truffles may be best when ripened, and know where to find them for a relatively reasonable price.

Black truffle oil

It's the end of the week and raining today--just another excuse to use the $12 black truffle oil from Surfa's, a local restaurant supply/gourmet food store. I've used it so far over homemade macaroni and cheese, oyster mushroom risotto, Humboldt Fog cheese, and a great Eric Ripert cod and white beans recipe I found online at www.chowhound.com. The trick is using a small amount so the odor of truffles is enticing, not overwhelming. I'm thinking about using it in one of the following items: scrambled eggs, homemade white pizza with whole wheat crust, or a crostini with fresh ricotta cheese and a baked tomato (a snack I ripped off from 'Ino in Manhattan).

On a similar note, I'm looking forward to visiting Northern California next month. Among all the great food (eg The Cheese Board, my mom's pho, and Zachary's pizza), I love the San Francisco Ferry Farmer's Market and want to investigate the price of domestic truffles there.

Sabor a Mexico

Too much rice, too many beans, too much cheese "product" (that slab of melted orange stuff). These are some of the faults of some inexpensive Mexican places nearby, where the food comes
overcooked, obscured by sauces, out of proportion and shining with grease with nary a vegetable to be seen. On the other hand, many sit-down Mexican restaurants in West Los Angeles have overly long waits for $10 mediocre burritos and crowds of hipsters.
Faced with this problem, and wanting something new, I went to www.chowhound.com. Various posters extolled the virtues of Sabor a Mexico, at 8940 National near the intersection with Venice, so I decided to give it a try.
While walking into this small and very clean restaurant, I saw a woman making fresh tortillas. The large menu, written in neat, colored chalk, overwhelmed me as my mind swam with decisions. Forget the diet, I thought, as I ordered a quesadilla "en estilo DF" (distrito federal or Mexico City-style) with zucchini flowers ($2.75) and a tostada with beef picadillo ($3.50). We asked for water, and the cashier apologized for the different sized cups of water she gave us. The next stop was the salsa bar, which contained the following salsas: tomato, tomatillo, chipotle cream, avocado, pico de gallo, and hot (red), along with cilantro, onions, cucumber, and pickled carrots and jalapenos. With a few chips, I felt like that could be a meal alone. Sitting in the comfortable wicker seats outside on the fairly quiet street near the 10 freeway, I almost forgot I was in Los Angeles.
The cashier brought the food out on blue ceramic plates. My quesadilla was folded and about the size of a hard taco shell, with shredded iceberg lettuce piled on top with a smattering of queso fresco. The tortilla was fresh and lightly fried, but the best part was the flavor and the perfectly cooked texture of the zucchini blossoms inside. The tostada had a shell with a light spread of black beans, followed by juicy, lightly spiced ground beef, a lot of lettuce, some fresh cream, and a few small slices of avocado. Jack got a carne asada burrito (around $5), which had tender and flavorful beef with a reasonable--but not excessive--amount of rice and beans.
I felt that the cook had high standards for her cooking, since none of the food was too salty or spicy, but was seasoned enough and her presentation was picture worthy--something I may capture with a camera at a repeat visit.

Frozen banana

Today I had a half a banana for a snack and froze the other half, not knowing what to expect. Just a few minutes ago I took it out of the freezer and discovered a sweet, cold, and creamy treat, reminiscent of banana-flavored frozen yogurt. Now I know what to do with over-ripe bananas (besides throw them away)...

Salad daze

I've been having lots of salads lately. Although I can't quite give up my crouton addiction, I've learned how to make salads taste decent without adding too much oil--something my mother has been trying to get me to do for years. First, I've added to my vinegar collection, adding red wine vinegar to my balsamic, rice wine and white vinegars. Perhaps I'll try champagne or apple cider vinegar next. Trader Joe's seems to be a good place to buy these.

Another thing I've been doing to my salads is adding finely chopped garlic or herbs like oregano or cilantro. These seasonings really add flavor. I've also been putting in lots of fresh, crunchy vegetables like red bell peppers and little cucumbers, along with using mixed lettuces and ripe tomatoes from the farmer's market. Finally, when all else failed, the addition of lemon juice has improved my salads.

This Week's Menu

What I plan to make this week for dinner, after visiting the Santa Monica Farmer's Market on Pico yesterday and going to Trader Joe's...
Sun: Whole wheat pizza with low fat mozzarella and various toppings
Mesclun with heirloom tomatoes, balsamic vinegar with a touch of olive oil
Mon: Ground turkey spiced with cumin, garlic, and ancho chili powder
Served with small corn tortillas, cilantro, onion, and avocado
"Spicy mix" salad with tomato and yellow pepper, red wine vinegar and garlic dressing
Tues or Weds:Baked ginger scallion salmon
Fingerling potatoes and zucchini
Avocado, cucumber, and red pepper salad with lemon garlic dressing
Weds or Thu: Ginger chicken
Jasmine rice
Broccoli, zucchini, red pepper and onion saute

Update

After a short hiatus, I am back. While I was away from the blog, I went on vacation to Cozumel and Tulum, Mexico, and started a new job in a field somewhat related to gourmet food, specifically nutritional clinical trials. So far, I have learned that I need to eat many more servings of fruits and vegetables than I do now, and that I am eating too many starchy foods. I am making an effort to incorporate more lean protein in my meals, whether it be chicken breast or egg whites or non-fat Greek yogurt, to wear a pedometer, and to eat more frequent, small meals. I will keep you updated on my progress, along with bringing the regular features of "The Gourmet Gazette."

Local places to try, and a couple to return to: a list

To try:
Tender Greens in Culver City, because they might (key word) have decent salads.
Kiriko on Sawtelle-the appetizers look intriguing, especially the Ume Shisho Shirazu pasta salad.
The Calabasas farmer's market, and the Tuesday Culver City farmer's market.
Guelaguetza on Sepulveda and Palms, since it's right around the corner and word of mouth says they have really good Oaxacan food.
El Tarasco in Manhattan Beach-hole in the wall Mexican.
Indo Cafe on National; I can't remember the last time I had Indonesian food.
Musha in Santa Monica, because I love small plates.

To go back:
Sushi Zo on National, because I never thought I would crave uni or monkfish liver, and I can't stop thinking about the blue crab handroll.
To be honest, the only reason why I included this "to go back" category is my daily desire to go back to Sushi Zo. Every sad piece of fish I've had since hasn't held a candle to this place.

Sunday afternoon project-Creme Brulee

What I've been eating--Homemade pho...

A tortilla trick courtesy of Jack

While I used to warm flour tortillas in the microwave, yielding gummy tortillas that fell apart when I added fillings, I've since learned a new trick from Jack, who is full of tricks. Heating flour tortillas directly on the gas stove toasts the tortilla so that it is warm, slightly burnt, and delicious. Today I heated a flour tortilla using this method and ate it with hummus and some carrots on the side for lunch. Note that this technique doesn't work as well for corn tortillas, and that it is important to turn the tortilla over for even heating. I recommend using tongs to avoid toasted fingers.

From the Archives: 8/23/02

Since I have come across the archives of The Gourmet Gazette, back when it was an emailed newletter and before it became a blog, I will occasionally re-post archived editions. Below is the inaugural Gourmet Gazette.

The Gourmet Gazette Friday, August 23, 2002

Note from Editor:
This is the first issue of a weekly newsletter about food. I love cooking and eating, and I wanted to share some of my recipes with you. I’ll try to focus on quick, easy recipes that are healthy and use easy-to-find ingredients, and add occasional interviews or restaurant reviews. Tell me what you think about this premier issue at [old email address], and send me your recipes, comments, or suggestions.
Regards,
Christine T. Nguyen
***
Food of the Week
Honeydew melon is a perfect fruit for late summer. The cool, sweet, tangy fruit satisfies the hunger and thirst of late August afternoons, with its buttery and moist texture. Perfect with piquant goat cheese or prosciutto for a snack, or toss it with purple grapes, a chopped apple, a chopped orange, and lime juice for a refreshing fruit salad.
***
Recipes

Tomato Garlic Angel Hair
Boil a pot of water, then add desired amount of angel hair pasta. When cooked, add 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, 1 clove of finely chopped garlic, two finely chopped small-to-medium tomatoes, a handful of finely chopped spinach, and 2 tbsp dried or 4 tbsp fresh parsley to pot. Toss well, salt and pepper to taste. If you prefer a more mellow garlic flavor, cook on stove for 5 more minutes on medium heat. Top with freshly grated Parmesan cheese.

Spicy Basmati Rice
Sauté cumin seeds with 1 tbsp olive oil in pot until lightly toasted, stirring constantly. Add 1 cup basmati rice (brown or white), sauté for 2 more minutes, then add ½ red bell pepper, chopped, and enough water so that ½ inch of water lies over the rice. Bring to a boil, then simmer and cover for twenty minutes or until cooked. Add more water if necessary. Toss, season with salt and dash of cayenne pepper, and 1 tsp light margarine if desired. Variation: Add frozen peas instead of bell pepper.

Fast Chicken (or Tofu) Salad
Wash desired amount romaine or butter lettuce, tear pieces and drain well. Add 2 chopped Roma tomatoes and ½ chopped bell pepper. Toss with small amount of oil-vinegar or Ranch dressing. Top with sliced pre-grilled chicken (available in most supermarkets in the frozen section) or sliced marinated or Age tofu. Throw desired amount of crunchy croutons on top, or serve with toasted baguette or wheat toast.

A quick note

Although I had planned to write a series on the "best burger in LA", I haven't been eating burgers lately, but instead have opted for truly excellent green mango salad and duck curry from Thai Boom in Culver City. Thus the burger post may come eventually, should I run across an appropriately delicious burger. I will also write about cha gio at a future moment, when all my thoughts about cha gio have been collected and I throw out vitriolic comments about non-rice paper wrappers. In the meantime, I write about strawberries in the springtime, below, and about other enjoyable morsels that come my way...

Spring strawberries

If I had to pick a favorite fruit, it would have to be strawberries. I love their sweetness, fragrance, the beautiful red color, and the tiny, crunchy seeds. My mother used to slice strawberries, making sure to carefully remove the stem at the top, place a little sugar over them, and stir, creating a sweet and juicy mix of strawberries that she would place in a bowl with flowers along the edge. Now that it's spring again, I'm starting to see strawberries in the produce section of markets, and have an inkling to drive up to a fruit stand I saw a few months ago in Calabasas, right up the ridge from the ocean in Malibu, or go to the Santa Monica Sunday Farmer's Market. According to this link, strawberries fall under "What's Fresh", along with tangerines, asparagus, artichokes, cherries, fava beans, blueberries, green garlic, avocados, fresh herbs, radishes, and cherimoyas. Such are the sweet rewards of California in the springtime.

On a side note: hot dogs

Although I promised to discuss burgers, I have been sidetracked by a hot dog. Specifically, the chili cheese dog at Pink's, which I succumbed to last night under mild peer pressure. While I questioned whether the Pink's hot dog would live up to the hype, knowing that other hot dogs that people rave about (eg, Top Dog) fail to please me, once I had that juicy sausage in a soft bun, topped by a mound of meaty chili (no beans=a plus), onions, mustard and cheese, there was no more questioning. My companion remarked that she could live without the onions, and I agreed. This morning I heated up the other half of the hot dog for breakfast, for a surprisingly good, if indulgent meal (I had some green tea and a banana for balance.) The Pink's chili cheese dog certainly rivals the best I've had--a chili hot dog in a diner of unknown name in Schenectady, New York.
Pink's Chili Cheese Dog: 8/10 (Rating scale for hot dogs: 1=vegi dog and generic bun, unheated 5=your standard, $1, NYC dog from a stand with boiled hot dog, steamed bun, red relish and saurkraut 10=hypothetical best hot dog ever, with grilled bun, grilled sausage, and toppings galore.)

Bean burritos on the quick

1. Heat a flour tortilla over a gas flame until the brown spots become more pronounced.
2. Drain a can of whole beans, place half inside the burrito and fold.
3. Microwave for two minutes
4. Place burrito in foil to allow eating by hand.
5. Enjoy with hot sauce of choice.

Notes: This type of burrito tastes best without cheese, which makes this insides a liquid mess.

Non-fat Greek Yogurt--a Satisfying Snack

Take half a cup of non-fat Greek-style yogurt, chop half a banana over it, and drizzle 1 teaspoon of honey over this concoction.

Musings on being critical and the truly excellent burger

I have adopted a more critical attitude towards food in the last few years. I can think of numerous instances where I sat down at a restaurant, replete with white tablecloth and sparkling cutlery, only to be disappointed with the food placed before me as well as the bill. I can also recall other instances when I approached a famous "dive", but left with food that didn't meet the hype. There have been too many simple items made poorly: over-dressed and wilted mixed salads, dry scrambled eggs, and soggy quesadillas.
I now seek to find a truly excellent burger, which satisfies the following criteria: rare (red and raw) on the inside, seasoned (so that I don't have to add salt, ketchup, or hot sauce), served with accompaniments that add rather than obscure the taste of the meat, and a bun that does not fall apart, nor taste like cardboard.
Next in this series: Burgers that do not fit this criteria.

Mid/late-winter meal

Roasted chicken with roasted brussel sprouts, carrots, potatoes and enoki mushrooms.

I left out the roasted parsnips, which unfortunately didn't taste as good as the rest of this.

Fish sauce: the all-purpose condiment

Fish sauce doesn't have to be limited to seasoning Southeast Asian cuisine. A couple of weeks ago, I added fish sauce to marinara sauce on a whim. Although some might think the combination of fish and marinara sauce might taste repugnant, the result turned out delicious, as the fish sauce deepened the flavor of the tomatoes, making me resolve to use fish sauce everytime I make spaghetti. The next day, I didn't have spaghetti, but I did have a Caesar salad, to which I added fish sauce instead of anchovies. That tasted pretty good, as well. And, you might inquire, as to the following day? I think I went out for dinner. Regardless, fish sauce can season more than your pho and fried rice--it's proving to be a very versatile condiment.

Words on my old 'Hood

This William Grimes article on Astoria, where I lived for a year when I first moved to New York, is on-target about the deplorable Greek restaurant situation in Astoria, and mildly amusing with his description of food critics as "parasitic" and the dramatic situations that unfold at Flushing fish counters. It reminded me that, while I disliked certain aspects of living in Astoria, such as my landlord's explicit prohibition from residing with a cat, and the lack of nearby bookstores, the food scene in Astoria was-and is still-pretty rich. The article mentions La Flor, a wonderful Mexican bakery/restaurant in nearby Jackson Heights. There are so many places that weren't mentioned, such as the excellent Thai restaurant Ubol's Kitchen, which always delivered and had crispy, spiced "Curry puffs", the inexpensive hero place around the corner where enourmous prosciutto and mozzarella sandwiches could be had for less than six dollars, and Rosario's, the Italian grocery, where Rosario would often offer generous slices of freshly made ricotta samples to customers. And the ride to the airport was never fifty dollars...

Mad for Shiitake

As some may have noticed in the past post or two, I am infatuated with shiitake mushrooms. Even though they are somewhat pricey, and sometimes out of stock at my preferred local market, their aromatic, woody taste and chewy texture makes everything I put them in a little more delicious. Plus, according to Wikipedia, they have been researched for their medicinal "benefits", although the lack of references there makes me dubious about this claim. Well, at least shiitake have more mystique than, say, "Cheez-its".
My preferred method of cooking shiitake has been by saute. Yesterday, I added them to frozen vegetables for a stir-fry, and the day before I put them in vegetarian Goi Cuon (Vietnamese spring rolls). I have been tempted to add them to pizza, place them in soup, and throw them in fried rice, but unfortunately, I have run out of shiitake.

Fast-forward to the twenty-first century

Since "The Gourmet Gazette" is no longer stuck in the mid-nineties (though my Ipod playlist is another story), I've uploaded a couple of illustrations of the meal I discussed in my last post at Momofuku Ssäm Bar.

The preceeding photo shows the rice bowl with beef brisket. Visible, starting at the top and proceeding clockwise, are mung beans, shiitake mushrooms, red kim chee, smoky black beans, whipped tofu with Sriracha below it, white kim chee, and beef brisket.

The picture above shows the steamed buns, stuffed with meat (one might be pork and the other, chicken.)
Here's to more illustrations in future posts!

A New Year in New York

While the title of this post is somewhat misleading, as I did not spend New Year's Eve in New York, but rather in Los Angeles, I did indeed visit Manhattan a few days after the beginning of 2007. One of the best meals I had there was at Momofuku Ssäm Bar, a sleek space on 2nd Ave. and 13th Street that serves wraps, stuffed buns, and rice and noodle bowls for lunch, all with northern Asian ingredients (think kimchee and edamame).
Unfortunately, according to my sources, the premium menu emerges after 10:30 pm. Nonetheless, I thorougly enjoyed my rice bowl with beef brisket, especially the crunch of the just-cooked bean sprouts, the smoky black beans, the picked shiitake, and the tender brisket. The ambience is akin to that of a Chipotle restaurant; albeit with a brown color scheme and Asian influences--expect plastic bowls, serve-your-own water, and abundant bottles of Sriracha. As for price, portions run large for under ten dollars. Service was minimal, limited to the friendly rice bowl preparer who let me try all the sides with my rice bowl, along with the curt woman at the register who "carded" my companions and myself when we purchased beverages, inciting a flurry of fumbling into handbags and wallets. But looking younger than our quarter-century odd years is a good thing, right?
Rating: 8/10.