Monday, September 05, 2005

The Glory of Summer Tomatoes

Today is Labor Day, which some consider to be a marker of the end of summer. School has started, the sun is setting earlier, and white pants are being stored for next year. However, the season lives on for tomatoes. Summer tomatoes are real tomatoes meant for eating. Those rock-hard, pale red, flavorless orbs in December supermarkets are only good if used for self-defense. On the other hand, carefully chosen tomatoes in the summer are aromatic, slightly acidic, juicy, and delicious on their own or lightly seasoned with salt and olive oil. The key is to choose a ripe tomato, meaning that it is squishy enough to give when squeezed but not so much as to liquefy, that it emits a pleasant odor, and that it is brightly colored, whether red for the conventional tomato, or maybe a vibrant yellow for an heirloom varietal. Never mind dirt, which can be washed off, or scars, which, to my knowledge, have no bearing on flavor. Just pick a good one, and enjoy a pleasure available for another month or two.

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