Fish sauce: the all-purpose condiment

Fish sauce doesn't have to be limited to seasoning Southeast Asian cuisine. A couple of weeks ago, I added fish sauce to marinara sauce on a whim. Although some might think the combination of fish and marinara sauce might taste repugnant, the result turned out delicious, as the fish sauce deepened the flavor of the tomatoes, making me resolve to use fish sauce everytime I make spaghetti. The next day, I didn't have spaghetti, but I did have a Caesar salad, to which I added fish sauce instead of anchovies. That tasted pretty good, as well. And, you might inquire, as to the following day? I think I went out for dinner. Regardless, fish sauce can season more than your pho and fried rice--it's proving to be a very versatile condiment.

Words on my old 'Hood

This William Grimes article on Astoria, where I lived for a year when I first moved to New York, is on-target about the deplorable Greek restaurant situation in Astoria, and mildly amusing with his description of food critics as "parasitic" and the dramatic situations that unfold at Flushing fish counters. It reminded me that, while I disliked certain aspects of living in Astoria, such as my landlord's explicit prohibition from residing with a cat, and the lack of nearby bookstores, the food scene in Astoria was-and is still-pretty rich. The article mentions La Flor, a wonderful Mexican bakery/restaurant in nearby Jackson Heights. There are so many places that weren't mentioned, such as the excellent Thai restaurant Ubol's Kitchen, which always delivered and had crispy, spiced "Curry puffs", the inexpensive hero place around the corner where enourmous prosciutto and mozzarella sandwiches could be had for less than six dollars, and Rosario's, the Italian grocery, where Rosario would often offer generous slices of freshly made ricotta samples to customers. And the ride to the airport was never fifty dollars...

Mad for Shiitake

As some may have noticed in the past post or two, I am infatuated with shiitake mushrooms. Even though they are somewhat pricey, and sometimes out of stock at my preferred local market, their aromatic, woody taste and chewy texture makes everything I put them in a little more delicious. Plus, according to Wikipedia, they have been researched for their medicinal "benefits", although the lack of references there makes me dubious about this claim. Well, at least shiitake have more mystique than, say, "Cheez-its".
My preferred method of cooking shiitake has been by saute. Yesterday, I added them to frozen vegetables for a stir-fry, and the day before I put them in vegetarian Goi Cuon (Vietnamese spring rolls). I have been tempted to add them to pizza, place them in soup, and throw them in fried rice, but unfortunately, I have run out of shiitake.

Fast-forward to the twenty-first century

Since "The Gourmet Gazette" is no longer stuck in the mid-nineties (though my Ipod playlist is another story), I've uploaded a couple of illustrations of the meal I discussed in my last post at Momofuku Ssäm Bar.

The preceeding photo shows the rice bowl with beef brisket. Visible, starting at the top and proceeding clockwise, are mung beans, shiitake mushrooms, red kim chee, smoky black beans, whipped tofu with Sriracha below it, white kim chee, and beef brisket.

The picture above shows the steamed buns, stuffed with meat (one might be pork and the other, chicken.)
Here's to more illustrations in future posts!

A New Year in New York

While the title of this post is somewhat misleading, as I did not spend New Year's Eve in New York, but rather in Los Angeles, I did indeed visit Manhattan a few days after the beginning of 2007. One of the best meals I had there was at Momofuku Ssäm Bar, a sleek space on 2nd Ave. and 13th Street that serves wraps, stuffed buns, and rice and noodle bowls for lunch, all with northern Asian ingredients (think kimchee and edamame).
Unfortunately, according to my sources, the premium menu emerges after 10:30 pm. Nonetheless, I thorougly enjoyed my rice bowl with beef brisket, especially the crunch of the just-cooked bean sprouts, the smoky black beans, the picked shiitake, and the tender brisket. The ambience is akin to that of a Chipotle restaurant; albeit with a brown color scheme and Asian influences--expect plastic bowls, serve-your-own water, and abundant bottles of Sriracha. As for price, portions run large for under ten dollars. Service was minimal, limited to the friendly rice bowl preparer who let me try all the sides with my rice bowl, along with the curt woman at the register who "carded" my companions and myself when we purchased beverages, inciting a flurry of fumbling into handbags and wallets. But looking younger than our quarter-century odd years is a good thing, right?
Rating: 8/10.

Mixed greens with mushrooms, goat cheese, and pecans

Take one bag of mixed greens, mesclun mix, or herb salad, and wash. Dry thoroughly and throw into salad mixing bowl.
Clean and slice 4-5 small mushrooms (any kind--white button, shitake, crimini, or wild); toss into salad.
Throw in a pinch of salt and a swirl each of extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Toss ingredients, taste, and add more salt, olive oil or vinegar if needed.
Plate salad. Add a handful of pecans (walnuts may be substituted) to top each plate and a slice of goat cheese (flavored or plain). Enjoy.

Cure for the winter blues: Satsuma mandarin oranges

A couple of days ago, I picked up a crate of Satsuma mandarins for around five dollars.
My husband Jack initially displayed skepticism towards this purchase, protesting that the volume of fruit was too much to finish in a week. However, our combined efforts have left only three oranges left as of this moment.
In the last few days, over breakfast, lunch and sometimes in the afternoon, I've re-discovered why I like fresh mandarin oranges. Since they peel easily, they leave minimal fibrous stuff on the hands, and while mildly sweet, they are also watery enough to be refreshing. Although we've been eating these little oranges right after peeling, they also can add to a green salad (tastier and healthier than those canned mandarins in corn syrup) or a chopped fruit salad with sliced strawberries and bananas. Finally, Satsuma mandarins deliver vitamin C in a small package, providing a palatable way to boost health as the year turns.

No More Free Food

Due to a variety of reasons (I can't think of more places to get free food, and I'm sick of writing about it), I am cancelling the third installment in the free food series. Instead, I plan to discuss jalapeno cheese bread. (Please excuse the lack of the tilde over the n; my computer illiteracy renders me unable to find a way to introduce it.)
Back to the bread. Jalapeno cheese bread does not come from a famous bakery, like Acme Bread in Berkeley, or a not-so-famous bakery, such as the Bread Garden in Berkeley. Rather, one can most easily find jalapeno cheese bread at the local supermarket. I have had success at Albertson's and Ralph's, although I'm sure other markets sell it, except for maybe Whole Foods, but I won't go there today.
So what's the fuss about this bread? Even though the bread part itself, ironically, doesn't taste all that special (in fact, it tastes like Wonderbread, i.e., like nothing), the baked cheese and jalapenos are amazing. The baked cheese tastes like the pieces of cheese that fall off pizza in the oven, and come to a crispy char on the foil, and the jalapenos add heat and salt to this--two elements I have a weakness for. Based on experience, this bread travels extremely well, and makes as a good a breakfast as it does for enclosing sandwich ingredients. Finally, if one's jalapeno cheese bread has too much cheese, I've learned that feeding the cheese to a cat works effectively.

Free Food in the E Bay

For part deux of the free food series, I highlight the following location for free cheese, and possibly more:

-Berkeley Bowl.
While I am unclear on whether the olive bar is a free-for-all as it formerly was, free cheese samples are a likely bet at this Berkeley institution. In obtaining multiple samples of cheese, I recommend the "deep-in-thought-musing-method"--approaching the squares of cheese as if torn between buying and not buying, and acting as if another sample will hasten one's decision. Although the sampling of produce is debatable, I have certainly observed patrons sampling grapes and other small, detachable fruits and vegetables in the produce section.

Free Food Exposed

In this multi-part series, I will discuss the availability, quality, and quantity of the units of free food commonly known as "samples". In this installment, I will talk about commonly available establishments that give out free samples, and will discuss free sample etiquette and tips.

Free samples can be obtained from a variety of establishments. One commonly known bastion of free samples is Costco. One can try seven-layer dip, a spicy sausage, or even the ultimate, french bread pizza. Less substantial options exist such as iced tea (quenches thirst) or animal crackers (dessert?) The major drawback is that Costco requires a membership, so one must have a membership, go with a member, or tell the gatekeeper at the front entrance about one's intention to "think about getting a membership", but needing to "see everything first".

If one cannot gain entrance or has been banned from Costco, there is no need to fret. Trader Joe's often has samples located towards the back of the store, which can include chicken enchiladas, macaroni and cheese (the frozen kind), and various variations on soba noodles. Another market that frequently offers samples is Whole Foods. The cheese section often yields such discoveries as Manchego, and if one is lucky, there may be some nitrate-free hot dog pieces.

Supermarkets such as Von's, Albertson's, and Ralph's may or may not have free samples. I've had a tasty (but salty) lobster bisque at Ralph's in Monterey, but usually I come up empty-handed. Ranch 99, the Asian supermarket, had samples when I last went, but they were of mooncakes, which can be an acquired taste.

Even those who condemn the corporate world can enjoy free samples, as they are readily available at the local farmer's market. Common samples available include slices of fresh seasonal fruit, cheese cubes, and perhaps a small cup-full of apple cider.

Finally, free samples can be found outside of the marketplace. If one asks, Panda Express will provide a sample of the orange chicken or broccoli beef, and Baskin Robbins offers a tiny pink spoonful of one's choice.

On proper sample etiquette, one should limit the number of times that he or she returns for another helping, or at least bring a hat or sunglasses for disguise. I know someone who took off his sweatshirt to get a third sample. Also, grabbing is a no-no.

Some free samples tips:
-Time of day is key. The best time for samples is in the middle of the day to late afternoon.
-Stroll around the store to spot all possible sample stations.
-If trying to maximize sampling while minimizing spending, avoid eye contact with the sample dispensing staff.